Pictures from Piaget
In the world of horology, fine watches symbolize exquisite craftsmanship, superior materials, complexity, precision, and brand heritage. These timepieces go beyond functionality but also reflect the artistry and commitment of master watchmakers.
As we delve into the world of fine watches, we will explore what makes fine watches special, from the luxurious materials to the complications that elevate them into the realm of haute couture.
Metal
Metals play a crucial role in watchmaking and contribute to the durability and functionality aesthetic appeal of the timepieces. Among metals, gold, platinum, and stainless steel are mainly used. Each of them offers unique characteristics and finishes which put the finishing touches to watches.
Gold
Left: Rose Gold Vacheron Constantin Saltarello
Middle: Yellow Gold Vacheron Constantin Saltarello
Right: White Gold Vacheron Constantin Saltarello, sold €39,060, from Green Auctioneers
Today, luxury watch brands mainly utilize 18k gold (75% pure gold and 25% other metals) and this mixed composition can increase its strength, durability and resistance but may change the color of gold, and there are three common types of gold namely the classic yellow gold, white gold and rose gold. Therefore, there is always one which fits your occasions.
Platinum
Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5000T /000P-B975, pictures from Vacheron Constantin
Platinum is the most precious among all precious metals as it is regarded as the strongest and the most durable metal. Therefore, it is always a highly prestigious pick in the fine watchmaking industry. Platinum watches are usually made from 95% pure platinum alloy which is hard for the makers to work on. As a consequence, platinum cases are always reserved for the finest collections of watch brands.
Stainless Steel
Patek Philippe Complications- 4947 /1A, pictures from Patek Philippe
Stainless steel has high resistance to corrosion and rusting because of its low amount of chromium so therefore it is suitable to use as sports watches and tool watches. It started to be popular after the 1920s but it remained expensive. Later, it began to replace the use of the chrome-plated zinc and sterling silver in watch cases. Nowadays, due to its durability and resistance, stainless steel is widely used in fine watchmaking and it can be found in nearly every component of the timepieces, from the bezel to lugs.
Gemstone
Gemstones are often used in different components of fine watches,
including bezel, crown, dial, bracelets and movement jewels.
Diamonds
Vacheron Constantin High Jewellery Making, pictures from Vacheron Constantin
Because of the diamond’s exceptional hardness and brilliance, it is popular and are often used as decorations on watch dials, bezels, and hour markers in different types of gem-setting, like bead, baguette and closed-setting, which elevate the appeal of timepieces.
On the far side of their visual allure, diamonds are also utilized in movements, in which they are used in components such as escapements to reduce friction and enhance efficiency.
The quality of diamonds is evaluated based on the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight) which ensures the quality of the diamond used in the watch.
Sapphires
Left: from Van Cleef & Arpels (Perlée collection)
Top right: Piaget high jewellery lady bracelet watch from 1994, sold €42,840, from Green Auctioneers
Bottom right: Vacheron Constantin oversize lady bracelet watch circa 1946, sold €70,560, from Green Auctioneers
Due to their hardness and scratch-resistance, sapphire is one of the favourite gemstones for the watchmakers and they are used for bezels, dials and crowns. Sapphires are multicolored like pink, purple, orange, yellow, and even colorless.
Sapphire crystals can also be crafted in different shapes and thicknesses, such as shaped in flat design, allowing the watchmakers to unleash their creativity of watch producing while elevating overall design of the timepieces.
Rubies
Harry Winston the Precious Valentine’s Day (Ref. HJTQHM18PP011), picture from Harry Winston
Renowned for its vibrant red shade, rubies make the whole watch become eye-catching and elevate the appeal of the fine watches. Belonging to the sapphire family, it has exceptional durability and hardness so it has high resistance to scratches and wear. They are presented in different sizes and are utilized in crowns, bezels, dials, hour markers. It is also used to serve as synthetic jewels within the movement.
Emeralds
Piaget calibrated emerald and diamond-set from 1965, sold €12,600, from Green Auctioneers
Emeralds are another desired gemstone, which are famous for their rich and deep green hue that enhances the allure of the timepieces. They are often cut in a specific manner to create parallel facet rows, giving a charming appeal to the fine watches.
Today, nearly every prestigious luxury watch brand offers their own emerald variants which shows the popularity of them in fine watchmaking industry.
Coral
Piaget cuff watch from 1970, sold €51,660, from Green Auctioneers
Coral is an organic gemstone formed by living organisms in tropical and subtropical waters and it is in vibrant colours from pale pink to deep red to orange.
It is often used in dial and bezel which showcase the craftsmanship of watchmakers as creating a watch with coral involves lots of complicated steps.
Due to its softness, the coral must be carefully handled and shaped in production.
Lapis Lazuli
Top left: Piaget cuff watch lapis dial from 1969, sold €24,570, from Green Auctioneers
Top right: Chopard lady vintage circa 1970, sold €20,790, from Green Auctioneers
Bottom left: Vacheron Constantin lapis lazuli dial circa 1990, sold €15,120, from Green Auctioneers
Bottom right: Piaget cuff watch lapis dial from 1969, sold €26,460, from Green Auctioneers
Lapis Lazuli has been used since ancient times due to its deep meaning of representing nobility and spirituality. Lapis lazuli is a striking deep blue gemstone with golden pyrite.
Creating a watch dial from lapis lazuli requires complicated and challenging craftsmanship due to its softness.
Watchmakers must carefully cut and polish the stone to achieve the desired thickness while preserving its integrity. Handling it is challenging, there is a high failure rate during production.
Malachite
Piaget malachite dial from 1972, sold €3,654, from Green Auctioneers
Malachite is a striking green gemstone characterized by its vibrant color and distinctive banded patterns, ranging from light to dark shades of green.
Like Lapis Lazuli, malachite was gaining popularity in watchmaking since the 1970s and it also requires skilled craftsmanship to create watches with malachite.
Mother of pearl
Piaget lady bracelet watch circa 1980, sold €7,560, from Green Auctioneers
Mother of pearl is a shiny material produced by mollusks. It has a soft, shimmering sheen that exhibits various colors, from creamy whites and soft pinks to deep blues and greens.
Far more available than pearls, Mother-of-Pearl has been used as decorations for centuries. It is relatively soft compared to other materials, therefore it requires meticulous craftsmanship when producing watch with mother of pearl.
Onyx
Left: Vacheron Constantin onyx pocket watch – possibly unique – circa 1925, sold €18,900, from Green Auctioneers
Right: Chopard lady vintage wristwatch jumbo size from 1972, sold €11,970, from Green Auctioneers
Onyx is famous for its striking black color, often with white or gray bands. Its smooth surface gives it an elegant and luxurious appearance, making it a perfect choice for fine watches’ dials. Compared to other stones, onyx is a stronger one so it has great resistance to scratches and acids.
Tiger’s Eye
Left: Piaget cuff watch tigers eye dial from 1970, sold €11,970, from Green Auctioneers
Right: Bueche Girod cuff watch circa 1971, sold €14,490, from Green Auctioneers
Tiger’s Eye is known for its distinctive golden to brown hues and chatoyancy, which creates a shimmering effect. The unique appearance of the tiger’s eye allows for a dynamic visual experience on watches. The stone can change its look depending on the angle of light and the viewer’s perspective.
Due to its quartz composition like Onyx, it is relatively durable. Tiger’s Eye represents vision and protection for ancient Egyptians and is now used more often in luxury watches to elevate the design of watches.
Turquoise
Left: Piaget lady bracelet watch from 1973, sold €12,600, from Green Auctioneers
Right: Piaget turquoise dial from 1967, sold €16,380, from Green Auctioneers
Turquoise is a captivating blue-green gemstone. Its vibrant colour can range from soft sky blue to deep cyan-blue. It often features mixed patterns of brown or black. The use of turquoise dials has gained significant popularity in recent years, it is used in Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual model.
However, turquoise is relatively softer than other gemstones, this indicates that it requires careful handling to avoid making any scratches or damages.
Opal
Picture from Piaget
Opal is primarily used as a dial material in high-end watches. Opal is known for displaying a dazzling array of hues, including reds, blues, greens, and yellows. The shifting hues can create a dynamic visual experience for watch collectors, making each watch truly one-of-a-kind. Careful craftsmanship is required due to the stone’s softness. Otherwise, opals can be cracked or chipped easily.
Leather
Picture from Hermès
Leather is widely used in watchmaking as a bracelet and there are a variety of leather including but not only calfskin leather, alligator leather, and goat leather etc.
Each timepiece tells a unique story, shaped by an array of materials that transcend the ordinary. As an Auction House specializing in vintage fine watches, Green Auctioneers celebrate the artistry and innovation that elevate these remarkable creations beyond mere instruments of timekeeping.
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